Our day at Osteria Francescana

30^th May 2017

Our day at Osteria Francescana

Chef Massimo Bottura

Address: Via Stella, 22, 41121 Modena MO, Italy

Phone: +39 059 223912

Email: reserve@osteriafrancescana.it

 

 

 

The Family – My wife Monica and two sons, Ciarán and Cian and I , Paul . It was our day at Osteria Francescana.

All photographs in this write up were taken by me on the day. I hope that I have not infringed anyone’s rights, it is not my intention, the photographs reflect the day we had and the wonderful food and experience at the most beautiful restaurant.

 

What inspired us to go to Chef Massimo Bottura ‘s Osteria Francescana in Modena, Italy

A few years back , about three to four , I was watching an episode of the UK’s edition of Masterchef. On this particular episode  the contestants were taken  to Chef Massimo Bottura ‘s Osteria Francescana, in Modena , Italy.  Up to this point I was not aware of Chef Massimo Bottura and his brilliant food.  However, after watching that episode, I recall, phoning my brother and saying to him that if ever, I go to a Michelin Starred restaurant, it will be to Chef Massimo Bottura’s in Modena. I said to him that, even, if I was to just fly out to Modena , especially to eat there. This was how much the creations of Chef Bottura touched me. I loved, his enthusiasm, his creative mind, his use of local produce, his excitement, his way of treating people, his love for what he does. His food looked absolutely amazing, it was like looking at art but on a plate and eating it. The dishes were minimal perfection and deep complex structure, layers and layers and years of thought and inspiration. A profound understanding it seemed of his environment around Modena and Italy and the wider world. Yet the dishes were a joy, even playful.  I told my brother, I will someday go to Chef Bottura, restaurant. At the time, all I could do was keep the thought of going and wait for some time in the future for the occasion to present itself to me.

The occasion that presented itself to me

I like watching pro cycling,  on the telly but   in 2013 my family and I went to our first ever cycling tour ,the 100^th Tour De France in a motorhome. Our youngest was only about 7-8 weeks old, some people thought we were mad, maybe we were, but it was a fabulous trip, we got all the way down to the Alp d’huez and the mad hairpins.  We thought after that it might be good to do another cycle race in the future, so we looked at the Giro d’italia and sure enough the 100^th edition of that race would be in 2017.  In summer 2016, we  seriously looked at  going to the 100^th Giro. My cousin Michelle form Australia was over and she decided to join us on our epic journey to Italy in a motorhome.  In October 2016 or thereabouts the route for the GIRO100 was announced. 

 I remember seeing Stage 16, the cima coppi, the Passo dello Stelvio as the mountain stage to be at. It also was best suited in relation to time as our two kids were now at school. I started to explore the various stages of the Giro and, the picture began to come together. You see, I like Ferrari also and low and behold there is a Ferrari museum in Maranello and Modena, yes in Modena.

The light bulb moment. We will be following the Giro and the last stage we planned to watch was in Asiago. This was not too far from Modena.  This was not far from Osteria Franscescana. I began to dream a little and think could we, could we really be so lucky and take in the Giro100, Passo dello Stelvio ,

Ferrari and Chef Bottura’s restaurant in one holiday. All was looking good around December 2016, we had checked out motorhomes and booked one for the dates we had chosen in May/June. We would leave London on 19^th May 2017 and return on 5^th June 2017.  We had selected our route and the stages we would aim to be at  in the Giro. We had checked out the Ferrari museums and all was fine. The only part of the jigsaw missing was the reservation at Osteria Franscescana.  There was still work to do on this, but at least the 100^th Running of the Giro D’Italia had presented itself to us and we were not going to pass up this opportunity, The stars seemed to be lining up.

  

The Reservation

The plans for out epic trip to the Giro were going well. However, I could not make a reservation at the restaurant until three months prior to when we wanted to eat there. Also with the itinerary made for the Giro we only had a small window of opportunity to book , The restaurant did not open on Sunday’s and Monday’s so it meant that  we only had two specific days to work with for bookings. It did not leave me with much manoeuvrability.  We selected the date of 30^th May as the preferred day and to have the lunch rather than dinner. The reason for this was that we would have our two young children with us and the lunch timings would be better suited for them.  To book in the month of  May, the online reservation would open  on the 1^st February 2017. I eagerly awaited this day but I knew it would not be easy. Just like trying to purchase a concert or sporting tickets on line you have to be ready at your computer to start clicking once the time had arrived. It was pot luck. So at eight fifty on 1^st February I had my computer and mobile phone ready on the reservation page to start clicking just before the 9am commencement time. It started badly, it kept me waiting, and the hour glass just kept turning. I kept refreshing the pages , but no luck, then suddenly on my mobile , yes my mobile , I was in, I almost pressed the wrong buttons next , not believing I was in, I was flustered and panicking a bit, I calmed down and followed the process. The 30^th May 2017 at one o’clock was available. I booked it for five people, my wife, two children, my cousin and me. At nine fifteen I received an email form the restaurant saying;

“Thank you for your reservation request.
This is an automatic reply and NOT a reservation confirmation.
We will contact you within 96 hours regarding your inquiry.

Osteria Francescana is a twelve table contemporary Italian restaurant in Modena located the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy.”

My heart sank a bit when I read that is was not a reservation confirmation and that they will contact me within 96 hours. It wait seemed like forever but eventually I received an email at twelve thirty three on 2^nd February 2017 saying;

“Thank you very much for reserving a table at our restaurant.
 We are glad to confirm your reservation for Tuesday, May 30th at 13:00.”

Yes, we were going to Osteria Franscescana. The world’s best restaurant. I felt elated and relieved. When I told my wife and cousin they were over the moon, it just send our holiday plans and itinerary through the stratosphere.  Our plans were complete.

Now the reservation was confirmed, I contacted the restaurant to inquire if Chef Bottura might be around on the 30^th. Of course they could not say, but they accepted to carry out my request to get my copy of Chef Bottura’s book, Never trust a skinny Italian chef, signed by him, if I sent it out to them. Without delay I dispatched the book to give maximum time allowance.

As it was coming close to departure on 19^th May, my cousin contacted us from Australia to let us know the unfortunate  news about her mam, my aunty May, that she can been diagnosed with cancer and would need an operation and treatment. This meant that my cousin, Michelle could no longer make the trip. She was gutted, we were gutted, but it was understandable. Her mam’s health came first.  I am glad to say that my Aunty May responded to the treatment and is doing really well now, which is great news. So back in month of May, I contacted the restaurant to advise them that unfortunately my cousin could no longer make it and there would only be four of us.

  

30^TH May 2017, The Day, The Lunch, The Magic

By this time we had seen four stages of the Giro d’Italia and visited the Ferrari museums and we were ready to for lunch at Osteria Franscescana.   The day was very hot, in the thirties centigrade. We decided to get a taxi from the campsite we were stating at. The Taxi was air conditioned and so when we arrived we were cool and relaxed. We were outside at around twelve thirty five. We met a couple of American ladies that had stopped by to get some pictures of the restaurant. They were on their way to Chef Bottura’s other restaurant in Modena as they were unable to get a reservation in Osteria Franscescana. We waited outside a little and got some pictures of us all at the front door. We did try to open the door but I think we pulled the door rather than push so gave the impression is was closed . However, our youngest son decided to ring the bell and fair play to him, the door was opened inwards and we were given a wonderful welcome.  All the staff were brilliant. From the moment they opened the door until they bid us farewell around five o’clock. They catered superbly for our two young children also. It was an absolute joy. Also what struck me straight away when entering the restaurant was the décor.

 

 

The colours, the art. It had such an impact. It was definitely part of the experience.

 

 

On noting this I knew it was the right decision to come to this restaurant to have chef Bottura’s food. This place, as far as I was concerned was Chef Bottura. To eat his food, I had to see his restaurant, his town, his country. It delivered on all levels.

We were shown to our table in one of the rooms. There were five tables in our room.  We sat near the window to the front of the restaurant. My wife and I already knew what we would have before hand. We decided we would have the 9 course taster menu and wine matching. It was called the Festina Lente. The menu had this line below the Festina Lente heading; “ Osteria Francescana is both  fast and slow: a contemporary and traditional kitchen at the same time”. Bravo.
 

 

For our two young boys, we wondered what they might have. They love tortellini and always eat it at home, so we presumed that they would go for this. However, from the first day of the trip almost they asked for spaghetti Bolognese every day. It was no different at the best restaurant in the world. They asked for Bolognese. They obliged and served them the special Franscescana Bolognese.
 

 

Personally, I do not cook a lot, I would not say I am the best at describing what food looks or tastes like, nor am I the best at sitting for long periods at a dining table. My family with vouch for this. However, there are times when it is just right, it feels right,  the food is excellent, the drinks are excellent, the company , the atmosphere, the timing. That day in the restaurant it all came together. In the following, I have not included some more detailed descriptions of the plates of food we ate as they are described well by others on the internet in far greater detail and precision than I ever could. Also I could not recall everything we were told as each dish was described to us when it was served, but I have added my own feelings.

Our table, was nicely set when we entered. We were the last of the five tables to be seated. The golden fissured  plate below lay before each of us.

Before the main dishes, they brought some fresh bread and my wife and I had some Ca’Del bosco (2007) to drink. Then the main event began.

I never got a picture of the first wine served, not do I recall the year  and full name as I was too excited and never thought of getting a picture. However, I was not too concerned as we were there to enjoy the food and the place itself. The staff did describe each dish and wine but it all went so fast that I was not able to take it all in and remember it and to be honest that was not the purpose of the day. I took pictures of the later wines, I would never have remembered their names. However, below are some glasses to replace the first bottle I missed. They are my three glasses, not that I drank much!

 Our first dish was the Tempura of aula with carpione sorbet. Ooooh la la, what a starting delight. It packed so much punch for it’s size and it had my taste buds kicked into action and fighting for the best position.  This is fish and chips on a whole new level.

 

Parmesan and truffle crispy batons

 

 

Eel Skins treated like sardines – these are not sardines!

 

Rabbit Macrons and codfish pillows

 

 

The two lads enjoyed parts of our first dish , but next came their big Bolognese bowls,

 

Along with a good helping of bread balls and sticks placed on our table along with small bowls filled with olive oil. These were a delight and the kids loved them (minus the oil)

Our next taster was , An eel swimming up the Po River. For me, a simple, stunning plate of food

Following this trip up the Po River, I had some Castelnau de Suduiraut 2009 Sauternes

We then moved onto the, Grey and black rice

    Before;

After;

 

Then I had a nice glass of Tiberio Trebbiano d'Abruzzo Fonte Canale 2015
 

The Cod Mare Nostrum followed on,
 

The next wine I had was Glocal, Farewell, I do not recall the year

Then we were transported to Autumn in New York ,

 

This dish was nicely complemented thereafter by the wonderful Chateau Barbanau 2016

Then came the Tortellini with cream of Parmigiano Reggiano. For me this was the big surprise of the day. The dish was so simple looking, it was just tortellini with cream. That’s where it ended , the flavour and teasing of the palate was unbelievable . It was absolutely brilliant. How deceptive this dish was. The intensity of the Parmigiano Reggiano was a knockout. It was simply brilliant.

Before the pouring of the cream

 

 Then Tortellini covered with the rich cream

Some more wine was served up , a  Le Paine Boca 2009

 

Then one of the artistic plates of the day arrived at our table, the suckling pig tender and crunchy, and it was definitely that. What pleasure on a plate and the detail in the presentation, loved the pig veg.

 

Another before

And after;

My next wine was a La Lune Amphores 2015
 

Next came the Caesar salad in bloom and how it bloomed. It looked like a majestic ship sailing towards me to take me on a voyage of discovery just like my visit to this restaurant

As setting sail I had some extraordinary liquor of   tsuru-ume

 

It was time for desert, out taster menu had Yellow is Bello. This little bowl contained such fresh zingy devilish delights
 

 

Before, we came to Chef Bottura’s restaurant, I knew what was on the taster menu, but I always loved his “Oops! I’ve dropped the lemon tart!”. To me, this dish is so artistic, playful and sounded delicious, just what I think a desert should be. So, my joy could hardly be contained when they brought out this dish as a treat to the table. It just topped off the lunch. To me this is one of the dishes that captures Chef Bottura and his work.

 

 

 

 

We thought we were finished after this but then they came with two more gems.

Fois gras ice cream bar with traditional balsamic vinegar from Modena, chocolate covered fois gras and two dynamite filled cherries
 

  

After all that my wife and I had an expresso

The time did fly and before we knew it, five o’clockish had struck. It was a wonderful experience, we all really enjoyed it. It was never rushed and always relaxing. Even the two lads enjoyed it.  I have to say a big thank you to the front of house and back of house staff, what a great day you made it for us.

Also I got my book back signed. I was thrilled, thank you Chef Massimo Bottura and all the staff. I hope someday my family and I will have the opportunity to dine with you again.

   Epilogue - The Full Menu  - with all the proper names of the dishes and the wine

With the day we had and my diary entries, being a bit shaky on the names of the wines and food dishes, I thought that it might be worth adding in the  full menu that we had that day.  Below is that full list of the food and wine we had for lunch. Osteria Francescana  kindly provided me with our own specific list for that day on 30^th May 2017.

 It now serves as a nice reminder and memory record of the wonders served to us.

Life has been enhanced some more. Never let enhancement cease.

 

The End of a wonderful experience

Grazie Mille